Patchmane to Tinpiple – footprints in the dust

We wake to the clatter of tin pans

To the sound of hawking and spitting

To the blaring of lorries horns

We wriggle an arm out of the sleeping bag and check the phone

Six, twenty it says

We wriggle back inside until we have to get up and pee.

We get a cup of black tea to start our day

We get a lunch box for sustenance mid-day

We get a wave goodbye, “see you at sunset” they say

How to describe the daily trek down the mountain

How to describe the terror of the great trucks hurtling towards you

How to describe the clouds of dust and diesel and the gritty feel on your teeth

How to describe the bikes and cars freewheeling to save fuel

And all the time the constant blare of horns

Get out of the way they say

Get off the road they say – but there is no path

Get out of the way I am coming around the bend

Get out of the way, it is my road

Get out of the way I am overtaking, a road made for one

And sometimes to say hello

We stop at the Temple and sit under the Peepal tree

Are we becoming enlightened, are we becoming like Buddha?

No just stopping to eat our lunch for breakfast

We look over the valley, the most beautiful valley I have ever seen

We see fork-tailed pariah Kites circling lazily in the sky looking for their next meal

We wave to the children on their way to school

What is your name?

Where are you from?

How old are you? They all ask, the same questions every day.

Beautiful brown eyes, beautiful smiles

So cute in their school uniforms

So interested in the strange white women sat under the Peepal tree

We resume our walk, dodging buses, dodging, lorries, dodging motor bikes, dodging nasty prickly seeds that stick to your clothes.

Tinpiple comes in sight, six roads converge

Bikes, trucks, rubbish everywhere.

We make for the local café

50 Rupees for a hot milky coffee whilst waiting for the bus, best drink of the day

And we will do it all again tomorrow.


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